Our puppies are vaccinated as indicated by their nomograph, typically at 8/9 weeks He/She will need a booster at at 12 and 16 weeks. Please keep in mind that maternal antibodies may have prevented the first vaccine from being effective and you should be careful when exposing your puppies to areas like pet stores, dog parks, training classes and veterinary offices until your puppy has received the full set of vaccinations. Some great places to work on socialization while minimizing risk in the meantime are pet friendly Lowes, Home Depots, Garden Centers, Pet-Friendly Patios Etc.
We strongly recommend you titer your puppy before vaccinating for the above in the future, ask your vet to draw a blood sample and send it to a lab this is a fairly common request nowadays and most vets will be familiar. We use IDEXX or Wisconsin Veterinary Diagnostic Laboratory. Otherwise, vaccinate no more than every three years through adult hood and longer, if ever when your dog is ten years or older.
It is likely your puppy will be vaccinated for Rabies at 16 weeks of age, and then receive his/her booster when they are one year old. Following these vaccines we booster Rabies as required by law. Boosters: We recommend you get your dog a rabies booster no more often than every three years, unless required by law.
We prefer these vaccines are not given at all until your puppies immune system is well developed (Min six months of age), if at all. Bacterial vaccinations are most likely to cause reactions and if they provide immunity at all it is for a short time (Less than a year!) The most common vaccination that falls into this category is Bordetella or Kennel Cough. Other examples would be Leptospirosis, Canine Flu (Parainfluenza) and Lyme (Borreliosis). Please do not give these unless there is a direct risk in your area. Remember that protection for these last months, not years so you will need to repeat these vaccines more often to maintain immunity.
Some guidelines to keep in mind if you do need to vaccinate for these:
Only vaccinate for Leptospirosis if your vet is recommending this vaccine make sure you ask if the affecting serovars are covered by the vaccine. If not, there is no reason to give the vaccine.
Before vaccinating for Lyme, please have your vet titre for lyme or do Idexx’s snap 4DX test first. Ensure your dog does is not already infected before vaccinating.
Only vaccinate for Bordetella if your dog is going to a kennel. Vaccinate three weeks before you drop off your dog using the Intranasal vaccine only.
The Canine Influenza vaccine requires two vaccines three weeks apart and immunity is not conferred for another three weeks so plan ahead if you’re headed to an area that may expose your dog to the Canine Flu.
If you are offered either of these vaccines, do not give them, ever. Neither vaccine is supported by independent research.
We strongly recommend avoiding new vaccines on the market in times of essence. Minimal testing is done on dog vaccines before they go to market. It is highly recommended to wait three years before using a new vaccine on your dog.
Throughout the life of your dog you should worm your dog anytime you see evidence of worms in his feces or symptoms such as dry coat or weight loss. Worms will look like grains of rice or real worms. The grains of rice are likely to be tapeworm segments and rarely show on a stool test so tell your vet if you’ve seen them to get appropriate treatment. Also, tapeworms often arise from a flea infestation, so it is wise to worm for tape worms if your dog gets fleas.
Ask your vet if you’re in a high-risk area for heartworm. (In Canada, this is Southern Ontario, Quebec, and Manitoba as well as the Okanagan British Columbia. – In the US, almost all areas are high-risk) Heartworm is one of the more expensive routine expenses pet owners face. One of the ways to limit this expense is to treat your dog during the mosquito season with Ivermectin. To do this, purchase the 1% injectable Ivomec for cattle and a 1cc syringe to get the solution out of the bottle. The dose is .10cc/ml per 10 pounds of body weight. Please confirm this dosage with your vet they may want to dilute with propylene glycol.
Your vet will also offer several options for heartworm prevention, most recommended are Heartguard Plus and Interceptor if fleas are not a problem in your area or Sentinel or Revolution if they are. Treatments should be done every 4-6 weeks in mosquito season depending on the risk in your area.
Symptoms of intestinal parasites (Including round, whip, hook and tapeworms) are a dry/wiry feeling coat, and poor body condition despite your dog receiving adequate calories in a day. You should treat for worms once a year or if you see symptoms or evidence of parasites in your dog’s stool.
Coccidiosis is a parasite infestation that erupts when young animals are under stress. For puppies, this is usually weaning and during the transition to their new home. You will know your pup has coccidian if It has diarrhea, and more rarely, vomiting. The diarrhea can come and go or it can be constant. If your pup has diarrhea for a day. Make an appointment with your vet. The treatment for coccidian is usually ten days of Albon (sulfadimethoxine), which usually clears up the problem with one or two series. Give the Albon with food because it has a very bad taste. Healthy adult dogs are usually resistant to the coccidian protozoa so your pup will be fine once he is mature.
You should develop a plan for flea and tick prevention for your dog with your veterinarian. K9 Advantix II and Vectra are very effective, Frontline and Advantage are two good alternatives. Regular baths (with normal dog shampoo) as well as regular vacuuming and a boric acid treatment in your house are also effective flea control methods.
Regardless whether you purchased a performance or pet puppy, we ask that you wait a minimum of eighteen months before spaying/neutering your puppy. This does require that you take full responsibility for your dog once it is sexually mature (6-10 Months for males and 12-14 Months for females) to ensure no pregnancies occur.
Your dog’s hormones play an important role in a variety of physiological processes unrelated to procreation; such as bone density, growth plate closure, influencing other essential hormones and secondary sex characteristics. Dogs that are spayed/neutered may have an increased risk of cancer, hip dysplasia and cruciate ligament ruptures. Additionally, research has shown spayed/neutered dogs show increased rates of compulsive sexual behaviors (such as humping), sound phobias, other fearful behaviors and male aggression.
That being said leaving your female intact for one or two heat cycles does slightly increase the risk of mammary cancer. This risk continues to increase with every season, but in the first two years the increased risk is very slight. Mammary cancer does offer a good prognosis if caught early. Spaying before the first season does decrease the risk of this cancer by 95% but spaying between 12 and 24 months of age also reduces the risk significantly.
For males there is evidence that intact males are more likely to develop prostatitis. Acute Prostatitis can happen in a young male and is treatable with antibiotics. Chronic Prostatitis occurs more rarely in young males and neutered dogs. You Should also be aware some studies show neutering increases the risk of prostate cancer, but, this is an uncommon cancer in dogs and even more so for one under 24 months of age.
There is very strong evidence of other detrimental impacts of spaying and neutering, a survey found that dogs spayed early had significantly increased rates of Hypothyroidism (60-80%!) Weight problems, lifelong incontinence and chronic UTIS (Females). The risk of those however, go down significantly by letting your female have at least one season or if a male, allowing him to fully mature.
On top of all of that, delaying this operation allows your dog to grow more appropriately. Dogs that were spayed/neutered early often look leggy/lanky and grow up to an inch taller than those allowed to develop with their reproductive organs intact.
In summary, by spaying/neutering after 18 months, your puppy will have decreased risk of osteosarcoma, hemangiosarcoma, lymphosarcoma, and life-long chronic problems such as hypothyroidism, weight gain, incontinence and UTIs. They will also have almost no chance of ovarian, uterine and testicular cancer but females will have a slightly increased risk of mammory cancer.
Contrary to popular believe there is a big difference between leaving a dog intact and breeding it! It is important you manage your intact dog carefully. Just because you have not spayed/neutered your dog does not mean your dog should be bred! Females should be kept away from all intact males for the duration of their season. Females should not be left anywhere unsupervised, even in her own yard. Males should be taught an excellent recall and good manners around females and males alike and never be allowed to run loose without supervision.
Sometimes a puppy may have been identified as having an innocent murmur. This is a low-grade (1 or 2 on a 6-point scale) systolic heart murmur. These are very common in growing puppies and often disappear by the time they are six months old. Ensure you are having your vet listen closely at check-ups and confirm which checkup they can no longer hear the murmur.
If your puppy has a higher grade murmur, and/or it is still audible at six months of age you will need to have your puppy seen by a cardiologist before 12 Months of age. This is a relatively quick procedure that can be done in office. At the cardiologist’s discretion you may be able to observe the procedure!
An umbilical hernia occurs when there is a weak spot in the abdominal wall, fatty tissue – and in rare, more serious cases – push through that weakness in the wall. Some umbilical hernias are reducible, and some are not. Sometimes, a small hernia will seal on its own without treatment. In most cases however, this can be repaired surgically, you may choose to do this during your puppy’s spay or neuter typically costing an extra $50, or you may opt to do it on It’s own if you do not wish to sterilize your Smooth Fox Terrier. This condition has been common, there is typically one in every litter. Umbilical hernias are typically harmless & easy to repair however should be monitored closely. In very rare cases, a piece of the bowel may become strangulated in the hernia – this is an emergency and will require immediate surgery. Call your veterinarian immediately if the area becomes painful or discolored.
UTIs are another relatively common issue puppies face, it can happen in either gender but it is more common in females. Watch for things like abnormally frequent urination, straining, blood in the urine and possibly lethargy. Prevention is the best route, ensure your pups genitals are clean, if necessary wipe with an antibacterial cloth. You can also introduce a cranberry supplement into your pups diet to reduce the chance of UTIs, because the risk of a UTI dramatically decreases with age, you can stop this supplement around their first birthday.
Many female puppies will have vaginitis before their first season. This presents with a creamy vaginal discharge, sticky or dirty hair around the area (and sometimes their tail) as well as incessant licking of the area. This often disappears with the first season and does not need to be treated, however, if it does become quite serious get her to the vet for antibiotics.
Some dogs are prone to ear infections, particularly those in humid climates or those that are avid swimmers. Prevention is the best medicine here. We recommend routinely cleaning your dog’s ears to help avoid infections. If the weather is particularly humid, or your dog is swimming regularly – clean the ears more often. Watch for redness, or other signs of irritation such as gobs of black gunk, swelling, pain or a foul odor – These are all signs of infection and you should respond immediately.
Do not attempt to clean your dog’s ears if they are very sore and inflamed. Flush the ear only, and wait for the inflammation to subside. Warm the solution and shake the bottle before using. To flush the ear, gently squirt the solution into the ear and massage gently for 60 seconds. Wipe away the excess.
Your puppy will have been cleared by our veterinarian for luxating patella, however this condition can develop with age. Patellar luxation is when the kneecap of your dog dislocates from its normal position in the grove of the thigh bone. A dog with a luxating patella will lock its leg in a raised position until the muscles relax and lengthen allowing the patella to return to its normal position. Depending on the severity of the luxation, surgery may be required. Ensure your vet is evaluating your dog’s patella during every check up.
Unilateral deafness can go undiagnosed and it very tricky to notice. The dogs typically adapt very well and live completely normal lives. The only way to know for sure Is to BAER test your dog, this can be done as early as sixteen weeks. Something we noticed is a unilateral dog may run in the wrong direction, as they hear your call from the wrong side – otherwise it is very hard to diagnose a unilaterally deaf dog without BAER testing. Bilateral (both ears) deafness, is much easier to diagnose. To date, we have produced on unilaterally deaf dog, and one neurologically deaf dog (passed her BAER, but her ears didn't talk to her brain), both were in the same litter (G) and we opted to remove their mother from our program.
Smooth Fox Terriers have been noted to develop cataracts, Lens Luxation & Distichiasis. It is important that your vet inspect the dog’s eyes regularly to ensure they are bright and clear. It is wise to have your dog’s eyes examined by a canine ophthalmologist as regularly as you can to catch this conditions and treat them early.
Distichiasis is common across dogs in general, it is abnormal growth of the eyelashes in the meibomian glands. Untreated, this can cause corneal ulcers, chronic eye/eye-lid pain & excessive tearing. Once diagnosed, your veterinarian will want to permanently remove the eyelashes from the area. Several followups will be required to ensure the hair does not grow back.
Lens Luxation is when the lens of the eye shifts from its normal position to the front or the back of the eye. If it becomes trapped in the front of the eye, it can cause water-logging of the window of the eye. This will appear as bluing of the eye, as well as an increase of pressure in the eye (glaucoma). Should it move to the back of the eye it can cause retinal detachment as well as glaucoma. In both cases, the eye is usually painful and blindness develops unless early appropriate treatment is given.
Cataracts are found in many breeds, however small breeds such as the Smooth Fox Terrier and dogs with diabetes are especially prone to developing them. Dogs will develop a cloudy blue-grey area over their eye it can be small or it can cover the majority of the eye, small ones may not effect vision but will need to be monitored for growth. The bigger and thicker a cataract is the more likely it will lead to blindness. Vision can be restored via the surgical removal of the lens. Your veterinarian will determine if your dog is a good candidate for this surgery.
Cancer is the leading cause of death in dogs over ten, but experts say half of all diagnosed cancers are curable if caught early enough. Regular physical exams between routine veterinary examinations are important so that lumps, bumps, lameness and swollen lymph nodes are noticed early. It is important to be very aware of your dog’s “normal” so that any abnormal behavior can be investigated swiftly, potentially catching something like cancer early and allowing for hopefully successful treatment of the disease.
Legg-Calves-Perthes or LCP is the spontaneous degenerations of the femoral head, resulting in disintegration of the hip joint as well as bone and joint inflammation (osteoarthritis). Some Symptoms include lameness, gradually getting worse over two to three months, carrying of affected limb(s), pain when moving the joint and wasting of the thigh muscles on the affected limb(s). The exact cause of LCP us unknown however some researches suggest it is related to blood supply issues to the femoral head. Treatment typically includes surgery and physical therapy. In proper condition, affected dogs can live otherwise completely normal lives.
Hyper- and Hypothyroidism in dogs occurs when too much or too little of the thyroid hormones are released into the body. Hypothyroidism is most common in dogs and occurs mostly in dogs five years and older. Common symptoms include weight gain, inactivity and intolerance to cold. Thinning of hair and excessive shedding, occasionally with a tendency to bacterial skin infections. Hypothyroid cannot be cured, however supplementation of the thyroid issue will bring the levels to normal quickly and the dog can lead an otherwise normal life. Regularly testing the thyroid in dogs five years and older is the quickest way to diagnose a thyroid problem.
Hip dysplasia occurs when the ball and socket of the hip joint do not develop properly. This results in friction and grinding instead of the joint moving together smoothly. The joint deteriorates over time, and in some cases the joint will become completely useless. Some symptoms are decreased range of motion, difficulty or reluctance rising, jumping, running or climbing stairs, Lameness in the rear, pain and stiffness. Because of the small size and typical activity level of the Smooth, it is not often they are every symptomatic. You may choose to have your dog x-rayed and evaluated by the OFA. We offer an incentive for this test, more details on that have been included in this info pack. In most cases, joint and anti-inflammatory supplements as well as proper fitness & physical therapy are usually enough to keep your Fox Terrier comfortable for its life. In severe cases, surgical options are available and should be discussed with your veterinarian.
We wean all of our puppies onto Purina Pro Plan Sport (Salmon). A puppy should be fed three times a day until about six months of age, when they can then be transitioned to two meals a day. As adults, you may choose to reduce to one feeding, however this can result in hunger pukes, should you experience dry heaving and bile at specific times in the day (such as when they were used to eating before) it is wise to go back to two feedings daily. Typically at 8 weeks, a puppy will eat about 120g/Day(1 Cup) split between three meals. It is recommended you weigh your food for accurate feeding, rather than go by the number of cups.
During the transition to your home, your puppy may not eat very well – do not worry if this happens. Offer your puppy food three times a day, give him ten minutes to eat. If he does not finish his meal, put it up and try again at his next meal time. Do not beg your puppy to eat, do not hand feed, do not add goodies once you’ve put the food down. All these behaviors will encourage picky eating. Your puppy is a good weight now missing a meal or two will not hurt them.
Ensure your puppy/dog is not getting overweight, obesity can take years off your dogs life. Examine the condition of your dog regularly. The last two ribs should be visible when standing, and you should be able to easily feel the ribs under your fingers when you run them across the ribcages. There should be a noticeable waist behind the ribcage. If you have to increase the pressure to feel the ribs, there is no noticeable waist or in severe cases, the dogs shape from above becomes convex or rounded, decrease your dogs weight by at least 25% to get them back to proper fitness. If every rib is visible when standing naturally, the hip and spine are easily felt, or there is little muscling on your dog slowly increase your dogs food until they reach proper fitness. A dog slightly underweight is always better than a dog that is slightly overweight. Always provide your dog plenty of physical stimulation to keep them trim and fit for their lifetime. Keeping your dog in good condition can extend their life by almost two years, whereas obesity can shorten their life by two to three years.
Please do not free feed your dog, it is proven to contribute to obesity, orthopedic problems and decreased longevity. It is also harder to notice when your dog is off their food due to a potential health issue. Always ensure you are feeding the amount that works for your dog. The guidelines on your dog food bag are guidelines, and every dog is an individual.
Teach your dog to politely wait for their meal, this will save you much frustration as you will clean up far fewer spilled food messes! We strongly recommend puzzle toys and snuffle mats when feeding kibble to encourage natural foraging and as mental stimulation.
When you are housebreaking your puppy, it is wise to stick to a schedule so you know when your puppy is going to eliminate. Once housetrained however, we recommend varying the meals. Dogs have excellent internal clocks and can become anxious when scheduled meals are missed to the point of vomiting (hunger pukes).
Your puppy has been implanted with a Trovan ISO microchip from the Canadian Kennel Club. This is a small microchip roughly the size of a grain of rice injected under the skin between the shoulder blades where it should stay for his life. A small percentage of chips do migrate, it is recommended your vet scan for the chip during all check-ups and make note of where the chip is if it has migrated at all. If your dog is lost or stolen, a special scanner can be used to scan the chip and the code will lead them straight to you.
In some circumstances, collars and tags are a huge safety concern for your dog. Your dog should always wear a collar, ideally a one with that has recovery information embroidered or engraved on the buckle or collar. Never leave any collar on your dog when its not under direct supervision. This includes when they are crated, in the car, the house or yard. Many dogs die in the struggle when the collar gets hung up on or caught on something. Most commonly, dogs jaws getting wrapped in their companions collars during play seriously damaging the jaws and potentially killing the dogs involved. It is not worth risk.
Conditioning your dog to grooming is very important for their overall health. Begin this as soon as your puppy comes home, you will need: a toothbrush, toothpaste, nail clippers (or grinder), a de-shedding comb, and bristle brush, ear cleaner, cotton balls as well as dog-specific shampoo. Always use treats and start with very small sessions (a minute or two) slowly acclimate your dog to each tool. Praise every interaction with the tools so your dog learns to associate them and the grooming process with good things.
Your dog’s nail trims should be done no less frequently than once a week, ensure he is praised for any interaction with his feet. Do not overreact or get excited if you quick a nail, stay calm and praise your dog consistently. It is important that you are both comfortable with this routine as overgrown nails can lead to painful skeletal issues. Start with one paw per session when you begin, if the puppy is very uncomfortable start with only a couple nails at a time. I strongly recommend following the process outlines in the units in the Facebook group: Nail Maintenance for Dogs it will teach to your train what is called a positive conditioned emotional response and make the process of nail trims much better for both you and the dog. If you’re not on Facebook youtube, google or your local dog trainer may be able to assist you in creating this response.
Bath your puppy more frequently at first in order to get them accustom to the process, always use treats and praise. A wise investment is called a Lickimat, or similar. You can smear peanut butter or another favorite spread for your dog to lick off during the bath. The point of these baths is more to train your dog to tolerate and potentially like baths, more than cleaning him. Use warm water, and thoroughly wet the dog. Using a shampoo formulated for dogs, lather from the shoulder and work your way toward the tail. Lather the neck last, as this is most likely to result in the shaking. Be careful not to get soap in the eyes or water in the ears, use a wash cloth to wipe their face. Rinse the coat well, and dry him thoroughly. You can use an electric hair dryer, start with small sessions at first working your way up as the dog becomes comfortable being dried that way completely.
It is important to get your dog comfortable with daily tooth brushing, praise and reward your dog for tolerating your handling of his mouth and lips, slowly get him comfortable with your hands in and around his mouth rewarding consistently as you go. If using a toothbrush start with loads of great treats and very quick sessions, 1 or two minutes long one swipe of the brush at a time slowly working towards a one – two minute daily brushing. This simple routine can save you hundreds in dental care later.
Please be aware, even the best routine dental practice may not prevent the need for dental cleanings from your vet. Do not delay when a dental cleaning or extractions. Do not be fooled into thinking the teeth do not matter. An unhealthy mouth can be fatal to your dog.
Coat Care and Shedding:
You should brush the coat weekly to minimize shedding and keep the skin healthy. A stiff bristle brush and De-shedding blade are awesome for this task, the Smooth Fox Terrier has an abundance of coat and if you do not maintain the coat you will be astounded by the hair they leave behind! As with everything else, start with small well-praised sessions and work towards a full body groom.
Clean the ears at least once every two weeks, using a ear cleaning solution and a cotton ball. Squeeze the solution into the ear canal slowly, massage the ear for thirty seconds & wipe clean with the cotton ball.
There are some thing you as a pet owner should know in the event of minor issues, or what you can do in some scary situations to give your dog the best chance while you get to the veterinarian. Learn to check your dog’s temperature, typically this is done with a thermometer rectally. Normal temperature for a dog is 100.5F to 102F puppies tend to run a little higher. We also recommend having emergency information handy in the event you are incapacitated in an accident your dogs can be cared for properly.
Always consult your veterinarian.
If your dog ingests any chemical or medication, call your vet or the poison control hotline immediately. Time is often of the essence so do not delay if you suspect your dog has ingested something dangerous.
Bug Bite or Bee Sting:
If your dogs face begins to swell, give your dog Benadryl. You can confirm this dosage with your vet. The faster you get Benadryl into the dog, the less swelling and edema will occur.
The sooner you resolve car sickness, the easier it will be! Take short trips to fun places, avoid winding rides or lots of stop and go shortly after a meal, give your puppy something to do to occupy it’s mind, keep the car cool, and/or cover the crate.
Poor stools are common in dogs in times of stress, tummy upset and illness. Ignoring diarrhea rarely ends well, so some tools to combat that are: fast your dog for 12-24 hours from his last meal, add a probiotic to his next meals, & if necessary treat with vet recommended medication. If stools do not improve in three days, it’s time to see your veterinarian. Once feeling better, reintroduce food slowly, if a particularly bad bout start with bland white rice and chicken, slowly introducing regular food over the next few days.
Use a small amount of cheese, cream cheese peanut butter. Should your dog be one of the few who will spit a treat out this way, start with a few globs of your chosen treat, place a hard treat or kibble in three and the pill in the fourth, this usually does the trick. If your dog is not eating, or cannot eat ask your vet to show you how to pill them, always follow with lots of praise.
1-3 Tablespoons of hydrogen peroxide every ten minutes, repeat up to three times.
Protecting wounds and bandages:
Dogs will often pester a healing would and/or the bandage covering it. You can use a sock, t-shirt or jacket to cover the would and stop the dog from getting at it. We recommend using “cone of shame” alternatives such as the Kong Cloud, or Bitenot/Bitefree collars. If you must use the cone of shame, ensure it is clear to reduce anxiety.
Do not induce vomiting. Call your vet immediately. Feed your dog ¼-1/2 a loaf of bread broken into pieces. It will coat the object, helping it move safely through the system. You can also soak 1-3 cotton balls In ice cream for the same effect. This is an emergency, so make sure you see your vet.
Sliced Foot Pads:
EMT Gel, spray or if nothing else, super glue will work to hold the edges together. Cover the foot and limit exercise. If the cut is very deep, or you can see ligaments or tendons contact your vet immediately for stitches. Do not delay, wounds should be stitched within 24 hours.
To other dogs:
Choose a neutral location, outside, ideally off your property. In a neutral location, your current dog is much less likely to view your new addition as a trespassing intruder. Each dog should be handled by a separate person, ensure the meeting place is neutral for both dogs. The best plan is to have the dogs do something together, instead of just being pushed together. This is most easily accomplished by a walk. First, hold the newcomer in your arms and allow the older dog to investigate. Praise him/her for politeness and curiosity. They now know there is a puppy there but they may be hoping it goes away. Once the older dog has had his/her fill, place the puppy on the ground away from the older dog. There is no need for them to touch at this stage. Head out on your walk. Walk parallel and do not allow either dog to touch each other. An off leash walk is also a great alternative as the puppy is not likely to keep up with an older dog while still allowing them to get to know each other. Praise the older dog lots for tolerating the puppy.
Be aware of Body postures It is important to watch for hackles, stiff stance and/or tail, teeth baring, growls or a long stare. Scoop up the newcomer immediately and distract the older dog to prevent the escalation to aggression.
Taking the Puppy Home Ensure that the new-comer at least is crated on the way home, let the puppy investigate his new home first without the older dog. It is wise to keep the puppy leashed at this time until they have been taught appropriate behavior in your home. Once the investigation is complete, put the puppy away in its crate or exercise pen. Now you can let the older dog In and allow it to investigate the puppy’s smell in the home. Ensure the dog receives lots of praise even if the puppy is contained. You want to train the older dog to have a positive association with the newcomer. Especially for the first few weeks, do not leave the dogs unsupervised together.
More than one dog:
If you have more than one resident dog, introduce them one at a time. Two or more dogs can gang up on a newcomer and create an issue quickly.
Always praise your resident dog for tolerating the puppy, allow that dog to learn the newcomer means good things!
If your dog is known to be aggressive, do not introduce the puppy. Wait until the new-comer is older and more settled. Introduce later, as described above and always break off an introduction if you begin to see aggression and distract the resident dog with treats. Be very careful, early attacks on puppies have been shown to cause lifelong dog aggression and/or fear.
The Puppy Scream:
A correction from another dog is likely to illicit the “puppy scream”. This is defensive, as most dogs will move away from a screaming puppy. If your pup was corrected do not pick it up and console it. Let your puppy learn the lesson, do not correct the adult. These are important life lessons for your puppy you will be thankful for down the road.
You want to teach appropriate behavior around cats from the get-go, even the small Fox Terrier can do a lot of damage as an adult. Much like with dogs, it is wise to confine your new addition and allow the cats to get accustom to the smells and sounds of the new addition. Give your cat a puppy-free zone using towers, baby gates or furniture. Introduce your new addition to the cat on a leash and correct any rude or overzealous interaction. If your cat becomes frightened, put the puppy away and try again later.
** It is worth ensuring your new addition does not have access to the cat food or the cat litter – they will happily make snacks of both!**
The Smooth Fox Terrier has been bred to dispatch vermin for decades, while it is possible to teach them to tolerate small, prey-like pets it is better to allow them to live happily apart. For larger animals such as cows and livestock, teach appropriate behavior early – much like with cats!
It is wise to select a local boarding kennel in your puppy’s first year and send him for a few overnight visits. This is something your dog should get used to in the event of family crisis or longer holidays outside of pet sitters. Dogs who have never been in a kennel will find it very difficult and can be traumatized by the event. You will both be thankful for this when boarding becomes a necessity.
There are no shortcuts when it comes to house training your puppy. It takes months! A dog possesses a natural desire to keep their living area clean, to teach this you will need to start with an are that triggers that natural desire such as: a crate, an exercise pen or a gated off bath or laundry room.
Do not scold your puppy for messes in any shape or form, they will not understand.
Clean all accidents up very thoroughly so your dog cannot smell it
Do not give too much freedom too soon
When housebreaking, your goals are to teach the dog when and where to potty and that if they ask to go out – someone will respond!
When housetraining your puppy will need to go out – within 20 minutes of eating or drinking, after he wakes from a nap, after about twenty minutes of play. A puppy will always need to go more when active verses when they are confined. As a general rule of thumb, a puppy when quiet and confined, a puppy can hold it for as many hours age their age in months plus one. (ie, a 3 month old puppy can typically hold it 4 hours)
Once you have defined your puppy’s area, den or room – confine the puppy to that space the entire time you are not directly supervising them. This area must be small enough that you are certain the puppy will make every effort to make you aware they need to go before messing the area. When you take your puppy out, keep them on a leash so they focus on doing their business. No playing until they potty.
Consider whining and barking a request to go outside, try to get to them before they come frantic barking so not to teach them to be obnoxious. Be sure to keep them on the leash to keep them focused on the task (easier to praise when they are not on the other side of the lawn too!) You are also to direct them to a specific spot to eliminate, so they learn where exactly you wish them to go.
Use only your potty command (Go potty, go pee, get busy etc) When they do so, treat and praise! Now is the time to play if you want to! If they do not potty, return them to their area for fifteen to thirty minutes depending on the puppies age and repeat the above. Only allow supervised free time in the house once they have pottied outside.
Allow fifteen to twenty minutes supervised time in the house but then the puppy must be returned to his area. This is how the puppy will learn to ask to go outside, it also teaches them to hold it. Remember to wait for them to ask to go out, keep track of how long they go between potty breaks so that you know when to put them away to allow them to again ask to go out.
If your schedule requires them to be confined longer than they can hold it: Either get someone to come let them out in the interim or set the room up with litter to allow your puppy somewhere to go whole you are away.
Ensure your puppy goes out every time they leave their area before letting them play. Increase the living area only when they have gone a full seven days without messing, and only increase by a small amount at a time. If they mess, they have too much space too soon. For the sake of everyone, do not allow the puppy access to valuable carpet areas until they are fully housebroken.
Watch for the signs your puppy need to go: circling, whining, sniffing, going to the door, leaving the room. Ask if they need to go outside, and head out! Decide how you want your dog to ask to go out, ring a bell? Go to the door? Barking? Reward for these behaviors by taking him out when these behaviors occur.
Accept that accidents are going to happen .
They are not a crisis, however, the more mistakes you allow the harder it is going to be for the puppy to learn therefore the goal is to always keep them to a minimum. If you have a mess, consider what you did wrong. Did you leave the dog alone too long? Too much freedom? Maybe ignored a cue? Never reprimand for a mess, clean it up well and ensure to watch the puppy more closely.
If you catch your pup In the act, say their name loudly and sharply to interrupt start heading to the door saying “outside, outside, outside!” – once out use your potty command and reward when they go again. If they do not go, take them inside and confine them to their area.
Again, NEVER reprimand your puppy for a mess. This can lead to you dog not wanting to go in front of you.
Its important to properly clean a mess using enzymatic cleaner, remove any solids, soak up any moisture from the area (standing on several layers of paper towel will usually do the trick!) then soak the area in an enzymatic cleaner to clean it well & allow to air dry. Avoid cleaners with ammonia – this smells like urine to dogs.
For the average Smooth Fox Terrier can be house broken by the time they are eight to nine months old, going about eight hours without needing to go out. Every dog is an individual and so this can and does vary widely dog to dog.
The Teething Monster – Chewing:
Chewing is a completely normal behavior for any healthy dog, it is fun and stimulating, it eases pain during teething and dogs all explore the worth with their mouth!
You want to teach your dog good chewing habits, you’re not going to train out chewing – so provide lots of appropriate safe chews. This will save your furniture and shoes in the long run so start as soon as you get your puppy home!
Some great options for your dogs are kongs, nylabones, raw bones, American rawhide (unflavored unsmoked) and in moderation – pig ears, bully sticks, tendons and similar. Change out chews regularly so that they remain fun and exciting to your dogs – ensure they are available in any room your dog will spend time in. Teach your dog a solid “leave it” so you can correct inappropriate chewing – follow up this correction by redirecting your dog to an appropriate chew. If you do not catch them in the act, do not reprimand for inappropriate chewing – your dog is going to think you’re crazy and no lesson will be learned.
A great way to teach your dog what is appropriate is to have a toy box specifically for them. When you engage in a play session you can go to this box and encourage the puppy to choose a toy – if not pull one out and engage! Ensure this is very exciting so no to make the puppy think you do not want them pulling toys from there. When the puppy is chewing something you do not want them do, use leave it, drop it or no and then head over to their toy box “lets get one of your toys”. Never leave the puppy unsupervised until they know what is theirs to play with. If they get at something you did not want them to it is only because you allowed it.
Learning to Mark a Behaviour
One of the most effective tools in training is learning how to mark a behavior. It is the an efficient way to communicate with your puppy quickly and consistently that it has done something desirable.
Your marker can be a clicker or a vocal cue and it will indicate to your dog that a reward is imminent. The reward can be physical or vocal praise, treats or toys – or even an activity your dog finds highly rewarding. When training my own Fox Terriers, we use the vocal cue “YES”. Keeps my ands free and it’s there whenever I need it. Always reward after a marker even if you marked incorrectly.
When you set aside a training session for your dog make sure you’re invested in that time. Be excited about it and do not get frustrated with your dog. Try new ways and try to end on a good note.
This is probably the most valuable thing to teach your dog and you want to start immediately, and you want to “proof” this for the dog’s lifetime. This is a life-saving tool, not to replace good containment or a leash but something that could save your dogs life. The biggest problem is it is overused and under-rewarded. Quickly a puppy will learn that if he comes when called he is punished for getting into the trash or he’s no longer able to play with his friends or he’s getting a bath. Almost as quickly he will learn he can outrun you, and the big wide world is far more exciting that you. So, from day one, you must remember to do the following:
1. Always train this in a safe area, start indoors and work up to fenced outdoor areas, and on a long line in unfenced outdoor areas. Always be aware of near-by dangers.
2. Never call your dog for something he does not like, nail trims, baths, crate. Go and pick up your dog and take home for these things.
3. Always reward your dog for coming back to you, from 8 weeks to 16 years and everything in between, praise, treats, toys – Whatever you have give loads and loads. Every. Single. Time!
4. Train your dog in different locations and from different positions, always reward generously.
5. Use separate commands for when you want your dog to stay close, and when you want your dog to return to you in full. For example I use “Stay Close” and “Here” This allows to keep higher criteria for your recall.
6. Never stop training and proofing a good recall.
The Gotcha game
Randomly grab your dog’s collar, don’t use any words & change your pace and do it in different circumstances through the day. Say “Yes!” and Praise extensively. This will teach your dog to associate a collar grab with good things and not punishment.
If your dog is hand-shy or reactive to this movement, go slowly and use the highest value rewards and work down to lower value rewards. Again, seize every opportunity randomly and reward, reward, reward!
Use The Food Bowl
If you’re using food for training, and using interactive toys to feed you may not have much left to feed in a bowl but if you do you can also use this to reinforce recall. Once you’ve prepared the food, say your recall cue and stand still waiting for her to come to you – when they get there mark with “Yes” and give the food.
Spot the opportunities
Whenever you’re doing something you know your dog loves, like a car ride or a walk. Call them as you go to grab the keys or the leash and take them out for the fun thing. If they see you grab toys or a treat give your cue and reward when they get to you.
Add distance and distractions, complicate the recall. Do this every chance you get the dog’s entire life and you can prevent the worst case accident scenario. Call them from the car, call them mid retrieve, call them halfway through eating, call them when they’re on a walk. You can never work too hard on a recall, and I cannot stress it enough: if you only teach your dog one thing, a reliable recall is the most important.
Always reward a recall, for the life of your dog. Never give your dog a reason not to come to you. Do not punish your dog if you need to go and get it. Do not call him for the things he doesn’t like, go and get them.
What to do when they don't come.
It is bound to happen, and you need to prepare for it. One day your perfect puppy will test you.
1. Do not repeat yourself. Your dog will learn he doesn’t need to come on your first command.
2. Take a deep breath and relax
3. Walk (I do mean walk) towards your dog at a steady pace.
4. Grab the collar and slowly return to where you called from
5. Say “Good dog” and turn him loose, only this time call him back quickly and reward extensively if he returns.
This is referred to as walking your dog down and makes them aware they will come when called, even if you do it for them. Do it the first and every time your dog does not come when called. The more times you allow your dog to get away with ignoring a recall command the harder it will be to correct it.
Around 4 or 5 months of age your puppy is likely to enter the “inbetween” phase. This will last to about ten months of age, here are some important things to have, do and remember for this stage of your dogs’ life.
Ensure your collar is thick enough (3/4”-1.5” should do) and if you have a thin lead, now is the time to upgrade to a thicker one. This allows for better control and less work in corrections.
Prong and E-Collars should be properly fitted and used only for training. It is not a tool to rely on for the life of the dog. If you are struggling with your puppy, enlist the help of a trainer sooner than later. These small dogs are shockingly powerful and you want to ensure they behave appropriately.
It is important not to have your dog in a harness that restricts proper function of the front assembly. We do not recommend the use of harnesses unless the dog has a neck injury that prevents the use of a collar. Should you decide to use a harness despite that, Y-front harnesses are usually the best option. The Freedom Harness is one of the better ones to allow the body to move in the most natural fashion. Keep in mind these can still damage your dog if they are let to pull constantly.
Your puppy will start teething now, they will lose 28 baby teeth and 42 adult teeth will fill in the gaps. Ensure you have a lot of different chews and teething toys now. Tug is a great idea to loosen up some teeth. Check their mouths regularly to ensure you don’t have two teeth in the same socket, if you do – try to wiggle it and loosen it. Should it not come out itself in a week or two, pull it out or arrange a vet to do it for you. Play dates can also help! Puppy play is one of the best ways to knock out a few teeth.
During the teething process your dog’s ears may start to lift or go wonky. This change is often permanent if you choose not to do anything about it, If you would like to tackle the ear and keep If from lifting reach out to us and we will help you with the process. You may also notice the pasterns “drop” and other physical changes which will typically correct after teething.
Through this period your puppy has a huge need for play and social interaction. Ensure your pup is able to interact with as many nice dogs of all breeds and sizes as you can find. Do not introduce him to aggressive dogs at this point, they will run into one sooner or later and the later the better. Teach him how to greet other dogs appropriately, try to teach him to keep all four feet on the ground. Occasionally dogs may become bullies to other dogs their age and younger. If you notice this, do not get angry but correct the puppy and place him in a “time out” of sorts – Let them know bullies don’t get to play. It is perfectly normal, but definitely something you want to stop quickly.
It is extremely important to reinforce self-control through adolescence. Do not let them leave their crate or “room” or bolt through a door (even when it’s open) without your say-so. Do not allow them to drag you about on a leash, and ensure you are in no way encouraging demand barking. This is vital should you want to have some control when your terrier sees a squirrel or a fluffy dog he doesn’t care for. You can continue to take this through different points of training including leaving food, even if it’s on the floor. A plate of food left unsupervised etc. – These are things that may save his life down the road.
Keep your puppy fit and challenge him physically. Ensure your activities are age appropriate. They will change a lot through this stage and the best way for them to learn how to use their bodies is by using them. Keep in mind puppies should not be jumping higher than the height of their elbows and high impact activities such as weave poles should still be avoided at this age.
Keep an eye on your pup’s body condition, should they lose or gain too much weight adjust how much you feed. It is wise to pay attention to the calories you are feeding instead of the cups, this will make adjustments a bit easier. Around six months of age you can reduce the amount of food and drop the frequency of feedings to twice a day.
This is your reminder that they grow quickly, and one day when their face is grey and their eyes are cloudy you will be able to reflect on hundreds of photos from this age & cherish them deeply. They more than double in size by the time they are six months old.
You may find, a dog that has never left your side before will now take off on his own. Through this period do not trust them in open unsecure spaces. Firmly proof your recall, walk them down when they do not listen. Pay attention to escape attempts and reinforce anything that could be a problem even if it isn’t one yet. Use higher value rewards through this time.
Sometimes dogs will start to bark at strange people and other dogs, they begin to feel the need to defend their home, their people and themselves. Limit this behavior and do not allow it to become obnoxious. Never allow the dog to lunge at another dog on leash. Correct this quickly and firmly. A quick pop on the leash and a very firm “no” or “knock it off” is often sufficient.
Kennel and Car aggression – This is an intolerable behavior that must be dealt with swiftly. Correct each infraction firmly. This is a self-rewarding habit as the people/dogs always walk away. Set yourself up close but out of sight and when your dog acts in this way you get at them and verbally correct them in no uncertain terms. Be very intolerant of this practice.
This is your time to establish appropriate adult defensiveness. Do not hesitate to correct inappropriate activity & remain consistent.
Energy and Focus:
Adolescent dogs have a very high need for both mental and physical exercise. You may see an increase in chewing and destructive behavior now. Ensure you are providing loads of stimulation via exercise and training. Do not focus too much on one and not the other your dog will need lots of activities working both his mind and body. Obedience, barn hunt, agility, and tracking are only a few activities to look into.
Yes, either gender will do this so hold back the shock and awe If you witness this from your female, However do not allow the behavior. If the dog is to be bred, simply remove him from the situation and make a mental note to exercise him more – this will limit but not eliminate the problem. If this is limited to other dogs run him with an older bitch and let her correct him. She will let him know humping is not always welcome, something that may be news to him.
They will have lost their “puppy-license” now and standards will be higher for them. Their behavior will be corrected by formerly tolerant adults, this is typically worse for young males. Adult dogs will correct dogs even when we have not witnessed anything worth correcting ourselves. As long as the correction is appropriate (noisy and brief with no grabbing or biting) I do not interfere. If the corrects are fast and furious that is typically a sign to put someone away, its possible the young dog needs discipline or the older dog as grown tired of the dog.
Testosterone levels are rising rapidly in young males dogs, hitting a lifetime peak around ten months old. This can show itself in a few ways including but not limited to: humping, aggression from other adult dogs towards the puppy, interest in females, roaming and marking. Some males will also become uncomfortable greeting other males, and they may be corrected by other females for coming close. You may not know why she did it – but remember that she does.
Keep up interacting with other dogs with good temperaments. Dogs that your dog does not live with of many breeds and ages, different colors and sexes. Preferably adults. Being corrected appropriately will not damage their psyche and will teach them important lessons about life. Do not rush in to save your dog, however at the same time do not put him in the position to be correctly repeatedly. Remove him from a situation where he is creating repeated negative reactions from dogs he normally plays well with. This will help him learn how to interact with other dogs as an adult.
Tiffs are the equivalent of shoving/shouting match between people, noisy with some snapping but no biting blood or damage. Do not overreact to these, they are not knife fights. Always clarify appropriate behavior for your dog. Lower your voice and holler at them – you’ll know it’s a tiff when they stop. Give them both a stern talking to and correct the inappropriate behavior. If your puppy was corrected by a bitch and fought back, make note of this. It indicates he is not respectful of bitches and that is not a good sign. Find a more mentally and physically capable bitch and let them run together – it is important he learn now that bitches are not to be harassed, molested or fought with.
Young males will sniff other dogs in overly intimate ways. Rely on the other dog and watch it for a negative reaction. Should your dog be bullying other dogs this way – time to run him with that same bitch we discussed above and let him try it with her. If you don’t have that bitch just call him off the other dog, if he responds go off and do something fun. If he does not respond simply go take his collar and redirect him. Do not correct him or he may think he is doing something wrong.
This is a great way for your dog to get enrichment on his walks both on and off leash. As long as he is enjoying some 'free' time, let him sniff!
Sometimes males, especially those living with other intact males, may mark inside the house. This is urinating on vertical areas or areas of high scent. Do not let this become habit. The instant you discover your dog has marked, set them up.
Put on rubber gloves and get some paper towel and soak it in another dogs urine. Preferably an intact female. Let the towel dry completely. Take some plastic wrap and put in on one side of the paper towel. Use a straight pin and pin the towel to a vertical surface (plastic side in) in a room where they have marked. Ready yourself with correction tools ( cans, tin of coins, something of the like) Turn your dog loose and stay out of sight. You want to catch him before or just as he marks and go crazy. Flail your arms, jump around yell drop the noisemakers. You want to give the impression the roof is caving in. Do not get angry, hit or get in his face. You may need do to this a few times for him to really get it.
Your male can breed a bitch and sire a litter as young as four months old. Never give him free access to bitches In season. He should learn to work around bitches in season but you will need to keep in mind his mind his elsewhere, this is the most distracting of all distractions. Keep your standards high but start with less complex exercises. Even if you can only get him to sit ensure he is sitting quickly and with no laziness.
If during some freak accident, he ties a bitch, do not try and separate them. This can seriously harm both parties of the tie. The metaphorical “damage” is already done at this point, separating them will not reduce the chance of pregnancy. The tie will dissipate in 5-45 minutes. Call your vet and discuss your options with the bitch.
If your male is intended for breeding, then you want to teach him early breeding behaviors are appropriate. Licking/sniffing, humping and flirting. However is it best to tie these behaviors to a command rather than letting him show off his smooth moves every time he meets a girl. You can use a command like “get your girl” or even have a designated area for breedings. Outside of these times you can very gently correct or better yet remove him from the situation.
If your male is set for breeding it is wise to get a collection or two during his second year. At this point his health clearances will be completed and his semen count and quality will be very high. Contact us if you’d like more information on this.
Keep up interacting with other dogs with good temperaments. Dogs that your dog does not live with of many breeds and ages, different colors and sexes. Preferably adults. Being corrected appropriately will not damage their psyche and will teach them important lessons about life. Do not rush in to save your dog, however at the same time do not put her in the position to be correctly repeatedly. Remove her from a situation where she is creating repeated negative reactions from dogs she normally plays well with. This will help her learn how to interact with other dogs as an adult.
Your girl can come into season any time between six months of age and two years, any time in between being normal and most commonly for ours somewhere between 12 & 18 Months old. It is wise to allow her two or three full seasons before you opt to spay her.
How will I know?~
If you’re waiting on your bitches first season, chances are the signs will be unnoticeable to you, they are very subtle. She may be more interested in her genitals, she may act a bit oddly, spooky or uncharacteristically defensive. If you think she may be in season, get a tissue and wipe slightly inside the vulva – if you see pink she is in season.
The most noticeable sign is bleeding, on the back of her tail, on her dog bed or potentially drops on the floor. Additionally you will notice swelling of the vulva and more licking. If you leave her intact through maturity you will start to notice her quirks that come around with her season.
What to do?~
There is not much to do, she is not contagious or diseased. Keep up your routine as normal except ensuring she is not left unattended outside or with intact males.
Get her into her panties and get her favorite chew to take her mind off the new clothes. It’s a good idea to work on some heeling to get her comfortable walking in them.
Keep in mind that the cervix is open during your girls season so swimming should be kept to very clean water for avoided altogether to avoid bacteria getting past the uterus.
Please continue to train your dog all through her season, you’ll need to be most mindful the third week if around intact males and obviously do not turn her loose with intact males through any part of her season. They may have a harder time focusing with males around so keep in mind they may not be at their best.
Length of heat and fertility~
The average canine season is eighteen days, but can last anywhere from 12-30 days and our experience Smooths are usually on the longer side, though this is different for every dog. Of this period your bitch will be fertile for about six days, without testing, you will have no idea when these days are. Some signs are “flagging” (moving the tail to side when touched around her rear) and the vulva becoming much softer In addition to a pinkish-clear discharge. During this time she may also hump her house mates, male or female.
By the time she is six months old you’ll want to have at least two pairs of ‘panties’. They completely cover her rear end and close with Velcro. These will keep her discharge from covering everything you own. Pair these with thin sanitary napkins to absorb the mess. You can also invest in Femme Tabs, the chlorophyll will make the smell from all but the most experience stud dogs and thus can make training classes easier.
Housing opposite sexes~
If you own an intact male, or one lives close by he may go nuts during her fertile week. Howling, scratching, barking and not eating are all typical of an intact males response to a bitch in season. It is often best to send one of the dogs away, better the male than the female. If you choose to send the female away ensure it is someone you trust wholeheartedly. They must watch her very closely and ensure she is not bred. If sending them away is not possible, crate them closer together and watch them this will often make the male calmer.
A male that is more than four months post-neuter is safe to keep with a bitch in season but be aware he can still tie with her. Rarely, if ever, a roaming dog may hover around your home. This is very rare but ensure not to leave your bitch outside unattended.
If you intend to breed, keep a heat diary from the beginning. Keep track of physical and behavioral behavior and you may end up charting a pattern. Most girls do follow some pattern despite how seasons change from one to another. The diary will teach you the subtle changes in your bitch through her cycles.
Regardless if she is bred or not a bitch goes through the same hormonal changes following her season. Therefore, false pregnancies are the norm in many dogs. This development supports the survival of the pack. Only one bitch is ever bred in a pack but any or all the bitches could help raise the pups. Keep an eye on your bitch, about 10 weeks following her season she may think she whelped or has puppies. These bitches may experience a mild labour and may also let down milk and obsess over her toys. During this time they could even nurse and raise another bitches litter. There is nothing you can do to stop the symptoms of a false pregnancy, it usually lasts a week and she can work through it. If you notice your bitch is lethargic, will not leave her bed or is walking around crying it is very likely she is having a false pregnancy. Do not let people tease her by taking her toys, as she may be 007Aprotective of them. She really thinks they are her babies and is being a good mom.
Despite the odd behavior she can continue her daily life she is just likely to spend more time in her bed with her “babies”. Respect her “babies” and let her care for them.
It is very, very rare for young bitch to get pyometra – but not impossible. If you have a bitch that is intact at 5 years or older it is a very real threat. At this time pyo is much more likely; No one is quite sure how this happens, but it can be fatal so all owners must be well versed in the signs. Here at Venandi we have seen one case of Pyometra and it was in a two year old bitch. Thankfully it was caught early and she recovered relatively easier after her emergency spay.
If during some freak accident, your bitch is tied by an intact male, do not try and separate them. This can seriously harm both parties of the tie. The metaphorical “damage” is already done at this point, separating them will not reduce the chance of pregnancy. The tie will dissipate in 5-45 minutes. Call me immediately to discuss the next step.
Online you will find several available templates & keychains to let someone know who cares for your pets in an emergency. I strongly advise you buy one of these and the keychain In the event you are unable to care for your pets this will ensure they are not left to fend for themselves for however long you are unable to
It is wise to keep some items on hand in the invent of most minor injuries. Here is a list of some items to have in your home and/or vehicle:
• Absorbent gauze pads
• Adhesive tape
Cotton balls or swabs
• Fresh 3% hydrogen peroxide to induce vomiting (always check with veterinarian or animal poison control expert before giving to your pet)
• Ice pack
• Disposable gloves
• Scissors with blunt end
• OTC antibiotic ointment
• Oral syringe
• Small flashlight • Alcohol wipes
• Styptic powder
• Saline eye solution
• Artificial tear gel
• Phone number, clinic name, address of your veterinarian as well as local veterinary emergency clinics.
• Your most current vet record